Day 3 - Munkebu Hut and initial ascent of Hermansdalstinden to Moskenes
After a very, very cold and windy night at Munkebu Hut, the weather by morning had at least improved and the cloud lifted, surrounding us with incredible views. It was really something else waking up to such dramatic scenery. Unfortunately, the tent suffered during the night, the back of the outer blew up, we lost a few tent pegs and the poles got badly bent (later snapping, always carry duct tape!)
Me fixing the tent! And the view behind our tent at Munkebu Hut
Drinking water lake at Munkebu Hut. Lakes which are drinking water here are always signed
We planned to climb Hermansdalstinden today, so left our tent and bags behind at Munkebu, taking only food and water. The path is clearly marked past the huts with cairns. Due to the recent weather conditions, the path was wet and very muddy, which made walking a bit more difficult.
The the first part of the walk to the first summit was fairly easy, although steep and rocky towards the top. The views from here were stunning.
View from the first summit
Me looking over the lake
Looking over towards Sørvågen from the first summit
We continued on towards Hermansdalstinden, which took up partly down the summit we just climbed and up another. This part of the walk is easy and not particularly steep. As we walked, however, the weather worsened and it was clear that the final ascent to Hermansdalstinden would be wet and in cloud. It was at the second summit we decided that it would not be safe to climb Hermansdalstinden, so made our way back. However, we were not overly disappointed you don't need to go to the top to see the stunning scenery that surrounds this area.
Hermansdalstinden totally covered in cloud, which was lowering every minute!
We made a hasty retreat back to Munkebu Hut, and although we originally decided to camp there for a second night, decided that considering the damage to the tent on the first night, we needed to get back to the coast where the weather is calmer.
The descent was initially very good, especially as we could now see the scenery which we missed the day before.
The summit from the day before, this time not covered in cloud!
As we descended, however, the poor weather from the mountains soon caught up with us and it became very wet. This made the descent on the rocky sections treacherous, and extremely dangerous. In particular, the sections with chain were very dangerous - I would suggest that no one attempts this in wet weather. Despite taking it slowly and carefully, we both ended up with bruises, cuts and grazes.
Me heading down the last of the chain sections. It doesn't look like its raining, but it is! The rocks were slippery and steep
Despite the treacherous conditions, the scenery was still amazing and the lower and nearer the coast we were, the more the weather calmed. We were treated to a lovely sunset over Sørvågen towards the end of the descent.
Sunset over Sørvågen. The weather generally is far calmer towards the coast than in the mountains
The descent from Munkebu Hut to Sørvågen took around 5 hours, due to adverse conditions. In better weather, I'm sure this can be completed in 3. We then walked along the E10 to Moskenes, to camp at Moskenes campsite (150 NOK for 1 tent between 2 people).
I highly recommend Moskenes campsite - they speak excellent English, the staff are friendly and the facilities are more than you could wish for! Including showers (10 NOK for 3 mins), washing machines and dryers (40 NOK), and even a kitchen with 2 hobs and a microwave that you can use! And we were extremely pleased to find a very cosy but modern pub. The prices are, as you would expect, very expensive, but the tea is 25 NOK, and we felt so much better after a nice warming cuppa!
Moskenes Campsite: (left to right) The pub and reception, excellent grass for camping, some free food left in the kitchen, and stunning scenery
Day 4 - Moskenes to Reine
After a good nights sleep, and a decent breakfast (those hobs make life so much easier!) we made our way to Reine, 5km north of Moskenes. Just follow the E10 - its a great road for walking on and has a wide path for walkers. It follows the coast so gives great scenery over the sea. The day started out really warm and sunny, but as we neared Reine the weather was increasingly windy and wet (watch out in particular for Djupfjorden bridge, the wind really howls through it). Fortunately this did not last long, and as we approached Reine we got some great views over the town.
Our first sunny day! Beautiful Reine
We planned to climb Reinebringen today, but first wanted to set up camp so we could walk up without bags. We had read previously that there was nowhere to camp in Reine - luckily we found some really great spots for camping close to the town! Below is a map of how to get there.
Map of excellent camping spots in Reine
The camping on this land is great - flat ground, good grass, and only a 5 minute walk to a shop, cafe and restaurant. The viewing hut nearby has benches to enjoy the scenery in the evening and provides shelter when cooking.
Our camping spot in Reine. Mikes taking pictures of the amazing views! To the right is the viewing hut
Cooking in the viewing hut
A large group of French students camping near us under, with Reinebringen in the background
Although this was our first sunny day, we decided not to climb Reinebringen. This choice was not an easy one - however due to the very poor weather conditions over the past few days, and that morning, we concluded the path would be wet and slippery, and the winds were still strong. Safety always needs to be your priority. Instead, we walked around Reine, and went to Co-op. Co-op is about a 40 minute walk from where we camped - you need to leave Reine, and continue walking down the E10 to the other section of Reine, you'll see it from a long way away. The prices in the store are high, a loaf of bread cost the equivalent of £3!
We spent the evening relaxing and enjoying the scenery of Reine - there really is no other town like it!
