Day 1 - Journey to Moskenes
We decided to take our next hiking holiday further than either of us had been before - to the island of Moskenes in the Lofoten Islands in Norway. Here we spent 8 days exploring the landscape, scenery and villages, wild camping were possible.
We flew from London Gatwick to Oslo, then Bodø by Norwegian Air, then a 3 hour ferry to Moskenes. The whole journey took around 22 hours, due to the long wait at Oslo airport and coach journey from Nottingham to London. Landing into Bodø airport was a little unnerving though - the runway lies along the seafront so it looks as though you're going to the land in the sea!
Walking from the airport to the ferry terminal in Bodø is really easy, we followed a map printed off google maps but you can see the ferry once you reach the harbour. Its worth noting 2 Rimi supermarkets along the way, although be wary of the really high Norwegian prices!! Once you reach the ferry terminal there is a shop and cafe, and as a foot passenger you can walk up the ferry and pay outside of it (180 NOK each way).
The ferry coming into Bodø
Bodø was a very pleasant suprise - I didn't expect such spectacular scenery so soon into the trip. We were lucky to be leaving Bodø with such excellent weather, although once the ferry gets moving the wind can be bitterly cold! Inside the ferry is comfortable with plenty of seating, and a small cafe. We slept for most of the journey!
Mountains behind Bodø
3 1/2 hours later we arrived in Moskenes - but we were greeted with torrential rain, and the whole island was encased in low cloud and mist. (Fortunately the way back was clear and dry, see Day 8 for pictures of Lofoten from the ferry).
Camping in Moskenes proved to be impossible, there are mountains and uneven ground along the main road (E10), and the port itself had no where to camp. We walked up to Moskenes campsite, directly opposite the ferry port - and my advice would be to camp there if you plan to camp after the ferry. We walked down nearly to Sørvågen searching for a suitable camping spot, but as the rain got heavier we risked going behind an abandoned house. Norway is one of the only countries in the world where it is permitted to camp anywhere you like - so long as it is 200m away from a road or building. Fortunately, we were ok, but I would not recommend this.
Day 2 - Sørvågen, Å and Munkebu Hut
We waited until around 12 for the rain to stop on Day 2, and when we emerged from the tent the scenery was very dramatic, the low clouds topping the tops of the mountains looked strangely ominous.
The lake in Sørvågen with the low cloud topping the mountains behind
Following the E10 into Sørvågen, you walk past 2 supermarkets (Joker and Matkroken). We planned to BBQ each night, taking just 1 disposable BBQ (it weighs very little) and took coal for each night. We brought some pork steaks and sausages for under 100 NOK, which lasted 3 days (we originally budgeted 100NOK each per day!)
Sørvågen is a small town, and it is here you will find the path to Munkebu Hut and Hermansdalstinden. Following the E10 will take you to Å, an easy 2.5km walk. We didn't go into Å, but couldn't resist taking the classic photographs next to the road sign!
Me and Mike next to the road sign in Å
Following some lunch in Å, we walked back up to Sørvågen to find the path to Munkebu Hut, which is located just south of the lake on the right hand sign (coming from the direction of Å). Follow the road up to a track, which takes you around the lake and once you've crossed a wooden bridge, take the path on the left which leads you into the mountains. The path to Munkebu is clear and cairned with a red painted 'T', and some signs. The trek is relatively easy, and took around 4 hours.
Immediately you will come across a lake, which is drinking water if you need it.
Drinking water lake, and the path is clear to see on the left
The path is not always easy going however, and despite a fairly gently ascent to begin with, it does get steeper and has 3 points where metal chains are used to assist you climbing over the rocks. Warning: these are treacherous in wet weather, of which we unfortunately discovered! On the way up, so long as you are careful and slow, you will be fine.
The first of the chains, the worst of the three
The scenery on the way up to Munkebu was really amazing, with lakes everywhere you turned! Unfortunately the further up we climbed, the worse the weather became and we were walking in clouds, which was extremely unfortunate!
Scenery on the ascent to Munkebu Hut before we entered the misty clouds
We reached a summit! If only we could see what the scenery was like up here!
Munkebu Hut is in these clouds somewhere...
We arrived at Munkebu Hut quite late, however due to the sun not setting properly light was not an issue. It was, however, extremely cold and windy, and we could see very little. It did mean that the following morning, when the weather had cleared, we were greeted with incredible views! We camped on a flat area above the lake, which is also drinking water.
Our camping spot at Munkebu Hut (taken the following morning). The lake behind is drinking water.
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